Karat measures how much of a piece is pure gold: 24k is pure, 18k is 75% gold, 14k is 58.3% and 10k is 41.7%. More gold means richer color and a higher price but a softer metal. For everyday rings and chains, 14k is the best balance of durability, color and cost. Gold vermeil, gold-filled and gold-plated pieces have only a layer of gold over another metal, so they cost less but wear through over time.
Gold jewelry is sold with a lot of numbers and terms: 14k, 750, vermeil, filled, plated. They tell you how much gold you are paying for and how long the piece will look new. Here is what each one means.
What karat means
Pure gold is 24 karats. A karat is one twenty-fourth, so the karat number tells you how many parts in 24 are gold. The rest is other metals (copper, silver, zinc, nickel or palladium) mixed in for strength and color.
| Karat | Gold content | Common stamp | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24k | 99.9% | 999 | Bullion, some traditional jewelry |
| 22k | 91.6% | 916 | Traditional jewelry in South Asia and the Middle East |
| 18k | 75% | 750 | Fine jewelry, engagement rings with a rich color |
| 14k | 58.3% | 585 | Everyday rings, chains and earrings |
| 10k | 41.7% | 417 | Budget pieces, the hardest-wearing option |
In the US, jewelry must be at least 10k to be sold as gold.
Higher karat is not always better
More gold means a deeper yellow and higher value, but pure gold is soft. 24k bends and scratches easily, so it rarely suits rings or fine chains. As the karat goes down, the metal gets harder:
- 18k has a warm, rich color and is still durable enough for rings, but scratches more readily.
- 14k is the sweet spot for most people: durable, a good gold color and a lower price than 18k.
- 10k is the toughest and cheapest, with a paler color.
Yellow, white and rose gold
The color depends on the other metals in the alloy:
- Yellow gold mixes gold with silver and copper.
- Rose gold uses more copper, which gives it the pink tone and makes it slightly harder.
- White gold mixes gold with white metals such as palladium or nickel, then is usually plated with rhodium for a bright white finish. The plating wears over time and can be redone by a jeweler. If you have a nickel allergy, look for nickel-free white gold.
Solid gold vs vermeil vs gold-filled vs plated
Many pieces that look like gold have only a layer of it. The difference is how much gold there is and how long it lasts.
| Type | What it is | How long it lasts |
|---|---|---|
| Solid gold | Gold alloy all the way through | Indefinitely, with care |
| Gold-filled | A thick layer of gold (at least 5% of the weight) bonded to a brass core | Years, with care |
| Gold vermeil | Sterling silver plated with gold of at least 10k, 2.5 microns thick | One to a few years of regular wear |
| Gold-plated | A thin layer of gold over brass or another base metal | Months, depending on wear |
Vermeil and gold-filled pieces are a good way to buy gold-toned jewelry for less. Solid gold costs more up front but won’t wear through, can be repaired and resized, and holds some value.
How to choose
- Everyday rings and chains you never take off: solid 14k gold.
- Engagement rings: 14k for durability, 18k for a richer color.
- Trend pieces or layering necklaces: vermeil or gold-filled.
- Sensitive skin: solid 14k or 18k yellow gold, or nickel-free white gold.
Caring for gold
Store pieces separately so harder stones don’t scratch softer gold. Clean them with warm water, a drop of mild dish soap and a soft toothbrush, then dry them with a lint-free cloth. Remove plated and vermeil jewelry before showering, swimming and working out.
Common questions
Is 14k or 18k gold better?
14k is better for everyday wear because it is harder and resists scratches and bending. 18k has a richer, warmer color and more gold, so it suits pieces you wear less often or anyone who wants the deeper yellow.
What does 585 or 750 stamped on gold mean?
It is the gold content in parts per thousand. 585 means 58.5% gold (14k), 750 means 75% (18k), 417 means 10k and 999 means pure 24k gold.
Does gold vermeil tarnish?
The gold layer itself doesn't tarnish, but vermeil is gold over sterling silver, and as the layer wears thin the silver underneath can show and tarnish. Taking it off for showers, swimming and the gym makes it last much longer.
Can I shower with solid gold jewelry?
Solid gold won't rust or tarnish in water, but soap and shampoo leave a film that dulls it, and chlorine can weaken gold alloys over time. It is best to take it off for swimming.